Dark Forces

[markmcgladdery]

Sounds like a great weekend past - pity i couldn't make it up 

Just wondered if anyone got on Dark Forces and how clean/filthy was it?

Ta!!

[markmcgladdery]

To answer myself   - this route is AWESOME !!

Up today with John Heron - i took the 1st pitch and John the 2nd (it felt as tight as the 1st to me!)

Fantastic sustained climbing, great moves, bomber gear.
Route is perfectly clean enough - small wet bit in crack near 1st crux, but nice technical bridging takes you around it ok - speaking of which - bring your bridging shoes for a lot of the route...

Can't believe this doesn't see more ascents - or maybe it does and they just keep it a secret  
Well, the secret's out!  Get onto this route - it's FANTASTIC !!

By the way - the top/3rd pitch is a bit scruffy, but is short and sweet and in no way detracts from the quality of the rest.
And you can ab straight down the line/just to one side.

ENJOY !!

[johnh]

I can only agree with Mark, this route is awesome!, fantastic!, strenuous!, brilliant!, strenuous!, superb!, class!, did I mention it was strenuous? When I was registered on the old forum I had a little cartoon character beside my name with the following inscription below it; "I wish I was fitter!". Some things never change! As I write this I feel totally wasted!!!! "Dark Forces" really took its toll on me today, I was fine right up to the bulge on the first pitch, then a serious struggle ensued between myself and gravity. getting to the belay allowed me a little rest but the second pitch beckoned. By the time I managed to get to the second belay, (possibly THE most uncomfortable belay I have ever had the (dis)pleasure of occupying!), I had enjoyed two slips/offs which I had managed to catch, and one "propper" off which I didn't! As Mark said the top 18M pitch is a tad scruffy but the climbing is easy enough not to be affected by it. I, too, would encourage anyone to give this line the attention it deserves, it is certainly not one that I will forget in a hurry, I reckon my body will be reminding me of it all week long!

[joh]

Did this on Sunday with John McCune, himself doing the first pitch and I the second. The wet bit near the first crux must be semi-permanent. Back-and-footing with two pair of shoes at the back of your harness may be something like foot-and-footing, but still it is a poor substitute for the real thing. It was almost game over at
the first belay... oh memories... if you survive that belay the second pitch awaits and is superb. A lot of left hand and a lot of introducing your right foot to your mid regions. I also had a close call slip but saved the proper-offs for GBH. The second belay won't get any awards, and is probably a 0-chair belay on the standard scale, but there are definitely worse out there. If you do it, please don't wrap up too warm... But yes this climb is very very very good.