Jolly Roger

[JohnC]

Hi all

I'd like to get the historic facts about the 1st ascent of this route correct as some guidebooks have got it wrong. It is probably the best new route I've been on.
Martin Moran was gifted with this route by a friend who cleaned it & left for New Zealand or Oz

We did not inspect the route by abseil & climbed it ground up.
On 11th Sept 1981 Martin attempted the 1st pitch but rested or used a point of aid on the crux. He then abbed off without attempting pitch 2.
I then lead the 1st pitch totally clean (albeit probably using chalk & with some beta). I cannot remember if he stripped all his runners. I can remember putting some in on the crux which I did not find it very difficult (I would now). No rests, aid etc
Martin then followed pitch 1 and I then led pitch two cleanly (which had not been attempted previously)

[Geoff]

98. Jolly Roger *** 57m E3 (6a, 5c)
M Manson, J Codling (One rest point). 11/9/1981.
E Cooper, M McNaught (First Free Ascent). 19/12/1981.
A superb route and reasonable for the grade, taking the left-hand crack on this wall.
1) 27m (6a). Climb up to a small overhang and pass this on the right using good holds.Step left and up to gain the thin crack which is climbed with increasing difficulty go a good jug. Continue more easily to a small ledge.
2) 30m (5c). Climb the crack passing a few bulges on the way (Sustained).

[Geoff]

Hi there John,

Great to hear from the past masters on the accuracy of the information. I pasted the definitive route description up above there.

Are you saying you and Martin did it clean on the same day, before Eddies ascent?

Thanks,
Geoff

[eddie]

Hi John,

That looks like a printing error as I'm pretty sure my ascent was made with Martin and I never thought there was any aid to eliminate.

[Geoff]

From Calvin Torrans,

That was an error, it's correct in the old guide. It was first tried by Lindsay Griffen as a aid route in the late 60s' but didn't finish due to loose rock.  Then cleaned by Rodger Green, though climbed by Martin Manson and John Codling. Rodger was not happy, hence the name "Jolly Roger"

Calvin

[JohnC]

Hi All

Thanks for the clear up. We definately did not use any aid on the complete ascent. It was very gratifying for me as it was ground up. One point- only Martin knew Rodger, I went on the route on the understanding that the route was a donation to Martin & Jolly Rodger was the name that Rodger wanted. I hope I'm right as I've had one or two routes pinched from me & I know how upsetting it is.

John

[Geoff]

So am I correct in saying that the description should read:

98. Jolly Roger *** 57m E3 (6a, 5c)
M Manson, J Codling (One rest point). 11/9/1981.
J Codling, M Manson (First Free Ascent). 11/9/1981
A superb route and reasonable for the grade, taking the left-hand crack on this wall.
1) 27m (6a). Climb up to a small overhang and pass this on the right using good holds.Step left and up to gain the thin crack which is climbed with increasing difficulty go a good jug. Continue more easily to a small ledge.
2) 30m (5c). Climb the crack passing a few bulges on the way (Sustained).

[martin]

Hi all

I knew the history of the route and there were the remains of old pegs as reminders.  Rodger had cleaned the route but felt that he was not up to it and he concidered it only right that it should be climbed in good style.  As a result he gave me permission to climb it and Im pretty sure I confirmed that with him, I wanted to be sure that he meant what he said!

The first opportunity I had coincided with Johns visit, you could say lucky John!  With this good style in mind set the parameters for the ascent. Neither John nor I abseiled the line prior to the ascent and we both agreed not to use chalk.  Unfortunately on the day I ran out of steam on the last move to reach the first good hold at the end of the crux and so ended up using one rest point.  This in itself is an interesting point to concider, had I cleaned or inspected the route I would have known about the good hold and Im certain I would have climbed it clean!

As I remember it (its 30 years ago), I cleaned the runners as John lowered me only leaving the highest runner in place, to be honest we couldnt be bothered with the hassle of going to the top to rig an ab to retreive it.  John then lead it clean.

As for the name, It was given out of respect.


Martin Manson