JohnC
Newbie
Posts: 2
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« on: November 20, 2009, 04:39:58 PM » |
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Hi all
I'd like to get the historic facts about the 1st ascent of this route correct as some guidebooks have got it wrong. It is probably the best new route I've been on.
Martin Moran was gifted with this route by a friend who cleaned it & left for New Zealand or Oz
We did not inspect the route by abseil & climbed it ground up.
On 11th Sept 1981 Martin attempted the 1st pitch but rested or used a point of aid on the crux. He then abbed off without attempting pitch 2.
I then lead the 1st pitch totally clean (albeit probably using chalk & with some beta). I cannot remember if he stripped all his runners. I can remember putting some in on the crux which I did not find it very difficult (I would now). No rests, aid etc
Martin then followed pitch 1 and I then led pitch two cleanly (which had not been attempted previously)
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Geoff
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« Reply #1 on: November 20, 2009, 06:28:47 PM » |
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98. Jolly Roger *** 57m E3 (6a, 5c)
M Manson, J Codling (One rest point). 11/9/1981.
E Cooper, M McNaught (First Free Ascent). 19/12/1981.
A superb route and reasonable for the grade, taking the left-hand crack on this wall.
1) 27m (6a). Climb up to a small overhang and pass this on the right using good holds.Step left and up to gain the thin crack which is climbed with increasing difficulty go a good jug. Continue more easily to a small ledge.
2) 30m (5c). Climb the crack passing a few bulges on the way (Sustained).
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Geoff
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« Reply #2 on: November 20, 2009, 06:33:36 PM » |
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Hi there John,
Great to hear from the past masters on the accuracy of the information. I pasted the definitive route description up above there.
Are you saying you and Martin did it clean on the same day, before Eddies ascent?
Thanks,
Geoff
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« Last Edit: November 20, 2009, 06:35:29 PM by Geoff »
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eddie
Newbie
Posts: 4
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« Reply #3 on: November 24, 2009, 01:35:54 AM » |
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Hi John,
That looks like a printing error as I'm pretty sure my ascent was made with Martin and I never thought there was any aid to eliminate.
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« Last Edit: November 24, 2009, 01:41:29 AM by eddie »
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Geoff
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« Reply #4 on: November 26, 2009, 06:37:35 PM » |
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From Calvin Torrans,
That was an error, it's correct in the old guide. It was first tried by Lindsay Griffen as a aid route in the late 60s' but didn't finish due to loose rock. Then cleaned by Rodger Green, though climbed by Martin Manson and John Codling. Rodger was not happy, hence the name "Jolly Roger"
Calvin
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JohnC
Newbie
Posts: 2
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« Reply #5 on: November 27, 2009, 08:35:32 AM » |
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Hi All
Thanks for the clear up. We definately did not use any aid on the complete ascent. It was very gratifying for me as it was ground up. One point- only Martin knew Rodger, I went on the route on the understanding that the route was a donation to Martin & Jolly Rodger was the name that Rodger wanted. I hope I'm right as I've had one or two routes pinched from me & I know how upsetting it is.
John
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Geoff
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« Reply #6 on: November 30, 2009, 08:57:32 PM » |
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So am I correct in saying that the description should read:
98. Jolly Roger *** 57m E3 (6a, 5c)
M Manson, J Codling (One rest point). 11/9/1981.
J Codling, M Manson (First Free Ascent). 11/9/1981
A superb route and reasonable for the grade, taking the left-hand crack on this wall.
1) 27m (6a). Climb up to a small overhang and pass this on the right using good holds.Step left and up to gain the thin crack which is climbed with increasing difficulty go a good jug. Continue more easily to a small ledge.
2) 30m (5c). Climb the crack passing a few bulges on the way (Sustained).
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