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Author Topic: Possible new route at Marconi's Cove - Help needed  (Read 1053 times)
Geoff
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« on: December 10, 2009, 07:59:58 PM »

John McCune was up on 9 December and reports: "Was up at the head today with Jonny Parr. Just for a change, and with the thinking shorter routes would be better in the cold we went to check out Marconi's Cove. Climbed a few routes, two nice HVS's Drimadoon and Paudee, and the VS Cats Whiskers. then was going to romp up Soundman E3(5c), was figuring out where the route went and figured there were a few possibilities. The prow described, had 2 big roofs. I think sound man is right of the lower roof and avoids it, and nips left round the higher one. So I tackled the lower roof with a separate start, and I think its a completely different route. Its fairly hard sequency and technical, but super safe. Abseiled down it and gave it a bit of an inspection and clean, then jumped on. Took a few falls working out the moves round the over hang but its quite good. Wouldn't be surprised if its been done before, but then again, don't know how many people climb there when the prow is just round the corner.
Description - Climb the crack and corner left of the cracked wall on the prow. Climb through an overhang easily on right wall until under a big overhang on the left to a good rest on good ledges for feet. Using small but positive crimps make a big move for a rail and flat jug. Follow thin horizontal crack left and continue up easy grooves.

Having a good think about a grade, it definitely felt harder than any 6a I've done, but nice straight down safe falls, maybe E3/4(6b).

Does anyone know if the lines are marked correctly?

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Dominic
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« Reply #1 on: December 14, 2009, 10:28:12 PM »

new as far as I'm aware, and the line looks right on the image. been on this a few times over the years, good effort, would say 6c for anyone 6 foot plus. think Marconi's is officially squeezed dry, slab to the left of Kes (very eliminate) and a traverse are all that's left as far as I know

D
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shane
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« Reply #2 on: December 15, 2009, 08:59:47 AM »

Good effort 2J
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Geoff
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« Reply #3 on: February 15, 2010, 10:00:12 PM »

Suggested route description:

Eskimo Fiction E4 (6b)
J McCune, J Parr. 9/12/2009.
Climb the crack and corner left of the cracked wall on the prow. Climb through an overhang easily on right wall until under a big overhang on the left to a good rest on good ledges for feet. Using small but positive crimps make a big move for a rail and flat jug. Follow thin horizontal crack left and continue up easy grooves.
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