The Fame Game

[jmc]

The Fame Game... anyone climbed this E4(6a) recently? me and dayle were up on paddys day, i was looking for an e4 close by at the end of the day, after doing blind pew, and dayle doing talking heads. thought this looked good. abbed in to do the second pitch. felt like an old school overhanging jamming route. spectacular line but i got wrecked and had to aid it....the jams were greasy and kept sliding out. it had also got dark all of a sudden, and neither of us had our trusty head torches. never the less it was nails and i had no idea how to get up it. no crimps to latch onto whatsoever.

[KevPower]

I know Squib battled his way up it a few years ago, very insecure but he got it. He pinned himself at one stage when he backfooted onto his dreadlocks. Will Rock brought Dave MacLoed up it at the big meet years ago, both aided through the crux. It does not get too much traffic.

[johnh]

This was my first ever E4, and I loved it!!! Probably because I love cracks and corners in general. I got up it with a combination of jamming, lay-backing and bridging. I have always wanted to give it a second shot with someone positioned at the triagular roof with a camera, because the last time I found myself holding on to the left hand edge of the roof with my feet planted on the left face, reaching out right to place a friend into the right hand crack. To lay-back the crack I had to transfer my feet to the right hand wall, this entailed a "hanging crucifix" type move, which I always thought would look quite cool in my photo album! Since the route doesn't get a lot of traffic it would probably be best to leave another attempt until there is a good dry spell, then a little attention with a wire brush would be more effective. Personally I think it is a shame that The Fame Game doesn't get more repeats than it does, but then others may be like my climbing partner, Timbo, who doesn't share my appreciation for cracks and corners, much prefering blank faces with crimpy holds!