The Icarus Gun

[Geoff]

Martin Kocsis reports:

I spent 4 days cleaning this, plus half a day last year. It‘s in better condition than Hallowe’en is at the moment, but I always worry that I could have done more cleaning!

It’s in the White Lightning Amphitheatre, right of Scott’s Pine, and left of Eat The Peach (route 143). It climbs the line wrongly marked as route 143 on the photo on page 71; route 143 is correctly marked on the photo on page 72.

The Icarus Gun  ** 55m E3 (6a)
M Kocsis, G Gilmore. 29/06/2009.
A sustained and well protected open groove, with only two jams on the entire route. Abseil from flat blocks 20 paces west of the Hallowe’en block directly down the line (or from the Hallowe’en block itself). If doing this in one pitch, go heavy on wires 1-5, at least 5 of each, take plenty of extenders, and a set of cams up to No. 2, with a single No. 3.5. Start from the grassy plinth formed by three short pillars that lean against the cliff (clearly visible from the Hallowe’en block). Scrappy, but easy, climbing up the left side of the groove leads to the No. 3.5 placement at 5m. Move up again, step across and start climbing. A full selection of techniques should be employed (but leave your jamming skills at home). There is a hollow jug high up the route on the left wall which has defied all attempts at removing it: it should be treated with respect, but not caution!

Notes and stuff:

Early repeats would do well to soft brush the line as they go down, as there was a fair bit of lichenous dust from the cleaning. As you brush this collects further down the route on the bigger holds and behind a jammed block that also acts as a superb jug at about 15-20m. This should be excavated before climbing! A couple of torrential downpours should remove this dust.

It might be possible to take a restricted belay at about 30m where the groove kinks right, in which case the route is E3 (6a,6a). It might also be possible to do this in a 50m pitch, taking a hanging belay on an obvious spike about 5m below the top. Backed up on the ab rope, you should just make it.

The route is definitely NOT Eat the Peach. The two descriptions do not match up. For a start, there is no sustained crack, nor are there any big ledges on this one. The amount of rock removed from it (three giant flakes needing a gentle prod) prove this line has not been climbed.

[KevPower]

Repeated this a few weeks ago with Howard. Climbing is technical but not pumpy, which is good because the route is about 62m long. I led it in one pitch on 60m half ropes and Howard had to climb a few meters for me to top out. I think this is the best way to do it, it helps if the second is tied into the ropes before the leader starts. Gear placements take a bit of work especially in the lower section. Bring lots of small gear, I used the 20 quickdraws that I brought along with 5 friends on there own clips. If you are going to do this route I would do it this year. It took 4 full days of cleaning by Martin to get it into shape. I suspect it will dissapear into the greenery again soon unless it is constantly brushed. There is alot of bridging on the route, I wouldn't like to try it when it's green.

[Geoff]

Hey Kev, I'll note that on the 2nd ascents page. Nice one  

Link to route description

[Martin Kocsis]

Thanks for the feedback Kev. We did it on 60m half ropes too, and when I got to the top I had to take in a few armfuls before George was "Tight!". He belayed on the plinth (about 3m off the ground). I personally guarantee it's less than 60m!
Four days for one person to clean a new route at FH is pretty standard. I don't know what'll happen in a few years, but I'd like to think that because it's an open groove, and doesn't take drainage, veg regrowth will not be significant. Looking at a picture I have of it in an uncleaned state from last year, there really wasn't much veg on the route to begin with. My work had more to do with loose rock and getting the lichen off the side walls for that monster bridging effort.
Obviously the advantage of being able to ab down the line first is that you can brush it on the way down.
Still, this is a constant battle at the Head. Two very handy friends of mine backed off the "regularly" climbed Blockbuster that same week because it was so green. Conversley, George and I were able to enjoy Scorpion which was shockingly green and overgrown and probably hadn't had an ascent in 2 or 3 years.
Thanks again for your comments.

[Geoff]

Probably best to leave the route length at 58m which will ensure folks do it on 60m ropes. All good

[KevPower]

Looks like the route is about 59m from the top of the plinth, but 62m from the ground. I guess I should have read the description a bit closer.

[dayle]

Was on this at the meet, wee bit dusty on the holds but easily climbable, the smears and edges for bridging are ok.  Def 55m from the top of the grassey plinth and a 70m ab rope round the big block 7-8m back from the edge just gets you in and over to the plinth and keeps the rope off the route.

As for the climbing - what a route! real thoughtful imaginative moves that just keep coming at ya, but the odd ledge/jug/bridge keeps the pump away.  Fantastic, warrants three stars!

[stephen_mc_gowan]

Was on this at the meet, wee bit dusty on the holds but easily climbable, the smears and edges for bridging are ok.  Def 55m from the top of the grassey plinth and a 70m ab rope round the big block 7-8m back from the edge just gets you in and over to the plinth and keeps the rope off the route.

As for the climbing - what a route! real thoughtful imaginative moves that just keep coming at ya, but the odd ledge/jug/bridge keeps the pump away.  Fantastic, warrants three stars!

Did this at the weekend as well. A cracking route. I agree with kev though, it seemed to be closer to 59m. I thought the route was hard for the grade too, it seemed as hard as track of the cat to me