Visiting Information

If coming to visit the crag be sure to also read the Abseiling In, Gear and Safety Pages from the links above. You'll find a few useful snippets in there that'll help a lot.

Getting There

From Belfast, follow signs towards the M2, towards Ballymena. From the M2, take the A26 north towards Ballymena and Portrush. Turn from the A26 onto the A44 towards Ballycastle. Once in Ballycastle, if it is daylight, clear and you can't find the crag, go home! If it is dark, drive through Ballycastle and onto the A2, towards Cushendun and Cushendall. At Ballyvoy, (Hunters Grill on the corner) take a left following the signs for Fair Head along Torr Road. After a ½ mile, at the Fair Head Road Junction either:

Follow the Fair Head Road for 1½ miles to the National Trust car park at Coolanough or turn left just before for the Fair Head Car Park.
For the small crag and Murlough Bay: Go straight on for 3 miles.

Car Parking

Car parking is a sensitive issue and therefore you must only use one of the following 3 car parks. Access to Fair Head is not a forgone conclusion and is granted by kind permisison from the farmers and the National Trust, who own the land around the crag.

Recently, local farmer Sean McBride built a new car park at the Ballycastle side of the crag, completely out of his own pocket. It's called the The Fair Head Car Park and is 10 minutes walk from the Ballycastle Descent Gully and the Prow, which are the most popular climbing areas. The car park ensures climbers don't disrupt the farmers in the area, who regularily move livestock and machinery along the narrow road. It cost Sean a few thousand pounds to build and to help him recover his construction costs, please put a little something back, in the form of a small donation, using the honesty box provided. This support will assist to foster good relations and will ensure climbers are welcome at the crag for many generations to come.

A second car park, known as the National Trust Car Park is located at the group of whitewashed cottages at the end of the main road on the way in. This car park is used for all the areas either side of the Grey Mans Path.

The final car park is at Murlough Bay which is used for the small crag, plus all the bouldering at that side of of the crag.

Grades

On first acquaintance, the grades may seem harsh. The climbing at Fair Head is very physical and can be quite tiring for the uninitiated. Once you get used to the style of climbing, the grades seem just about spot on. Learn how to jam though!

For comparisons with international grades rockfax provides this useful table.

Ethics

Local ethics are simple. Climbers should possess a total respect for Fair Head and be honest. That's it in a nutshell. To expand on that this means:

Excessive cleaning that damages the rock or "improves" holds is not acceptable.
New routes demand a considerable effort to get them ready for a first ascent and therefore if you come across a cleared line that isn't in the guidebook, or mentioned on the New Routes page, don't climb it and claim it, it is someone else's project.
Bolts, drilling, chipping, hammering and stiff wire brushes, show a total disrespect for the climbers who pioneered Fair Head and for those who will come after. Climbers must respect the rock for future generations.
Leave no litter and pick up any you find.
Park responsibly.
Respect and acknowledge the local farmers who permit us to cross and use their land.
Write up any new routes with total honesty and integrity.

Guidebooks

Help to support the MCI and buy a guide. You will need one. The latest guide was published in 2002. With 363 routes in the guide it gives plenty to go at.

There has been some development since the new guide, but there is still a huge amount of unclimbed rock to go at if that's your game. New routing at Fair Head is hard work and expect to have to clean new routes thoroughly.

There isn't a stockist yet for guidebooks in Ballycastle (I'm working on that one). The outdoor shops in Belfast or Derry are the only stockist, up North.

Eating and Drinking

The Barnish Coffee Shop is the closest eatery to the crag and the owner, Brendan McCormick gives climbers a very warm welcome. He does everything you'd want from great cakes to a traditional ulster fry up.

There are numerous supermarkets in Ballycastle. The House of McDonnell is the favoured drinking spot for climbers. The Guinness is excellent and the locals are very friendly. Each Friday night has a local music session, and sure the craic is mighty. There are numerous cafes, but the café of choice is Donnelley's, once again on the main street, they have a huge selection of food at reasonable prices.

Hostel

The Ballycastle Backpackers Hostel located in Ballycastle town, is the handiest around. It's located opposite the harbour, just aroung the corner from the Marine Hotel, and has a view of the crag from the front door. Spaces are limited, so be sure to book well in advance.

Bed and Breakfast

A whole row of these are on the main street that runs towards the harbour.

Camping

I'm pleased to inform you that Sean McBride (farmer and landowner) has agreed to permit camping in the area of the ruined farm. Sean has been encouraged, when this was tested in 2008 and climbers proved that gates would be kept closed, all litter would be taken home and people would donate £5 per person per night, for the privilege, which includes car parking for 2 days. This is a big step forward, and if it is popular it'll help to spur Sean on to develop further. There are no toilets and climbers should take the short drive to use the toilet at the Barnish Cafe. Sean has provided a fresh water tap in the car park.

Elsewhere camping is strictly prohibited at Fair Head, although there are good camp sites in the caravan parks in Ballycastle. Fair Head Caravan Park (on the west side of town) and - with a much better situation - Maguire's Strand Caravan Park, down on the coast on the Ballyvoy / east side of town. Maguires closes for camping on 31st Oct and re-opens in Spring. More info is needed on these, prices, facilities, etc.

Other things to see or do

The is much to do in the area if the weather is not kind. There is the wacky Carrick-a-rede rope bridge; the usual Giant's Causeway, a day ferry across to Rathlin Island or the Bushmills Distillery, to suggest a few. During your visit, information may be gained from the tourist office on the main street in Ballycastle. Prior to your visit, information on the region, the local history and folklore and may be viewed at www.northantrim.com.

If you've any other info that may be useful, mail it in...